Pasta Perfect

Summary


Pasta: Fresh eggs essential for good noodles

In Idwal Jones' obscure and wonderful book, High Bonnet: A Novel of Epicurean Adventures, an all-too-short collection of stories about a young man winding his way through the labyrinthine world of an early 20th-century Parisian apprenticeship to become a chef, there is a chapter about a meal of pasta.

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Extract


Pasta Perfect

Guido, the chef of stocks, takes his young acolyte and a wealthy gourmand to a trattoria he used to frequent in the dark and seamy side of the city where a certain kind of food is excellent. Not having been there for a time, Guido does not realize the restaurant has changed hands, and a humiliating experience over a simple plate of pasta and tomato sauce ensues.

Two important truths are contained within this short passage. One is that even for the experienced chef and his friend, the gourmand, a simple plate of pasta can hold an almost mystical pleasure. The other is how easily it all can go wrong.

The nearly naked noodle

My first experiences with pasta in Italy introduced me to dishes quite different from the overcooked and over-sauced macaroni I was used to.

At first I thought something was wrong, that someone had skimped on the portion of sauce: there was hardly a t...

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