Restaurant Review: To Know It Is to Love It

Summary


IN SHORT

Chef Carlo Gislimberti dishes out fine northern Italian meals at Villa Fontana, his little pink-walled restaurant north of Taos. His ingredients are fresh, and his dishes are light and creative. Start with a Caesar salad -- prepared tableside -- and try the tender venison with chestnuts. Wrap up with a fresh-fruit sorbet. Only a born Italian could pull off a sorbet so good.

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Extract


Restaurant Review: To Know It Is to Love It

The first night we visited Villa Fontana in its Mediterranean- style adobe north of Taos, my dining partner and I were celebrating our anniversary. We were merry, without children attached, and a late-summer sunset cast warm shadows on the Sangre de Cristo Mountains above us.

We had heard little about Villa Fontana, so we weren't expecting much. I knew only that the restaurant f...

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