Summer's Golden Blossom

Summary


Long revered in Mediterranean and Mexican kitchens, the squash blossom is finding its way to New Mexico tables

Nine years ago, when Moskow arrived at the restaurant, he created an appetizer he called Squash Blossom Beignets with Goat Cheese Fondue. It was made of squash blossoms fried in a soda batter served on what he termed a goat-cheese fondue. By his second year here, Moskow had added a tomato fondue to the blossoms. "Goat cheese," he said, "is the low note, and tomato is the high note."

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Summer's Golden Blossom

Today, his squash-blossom creation is 315's signature dish.

o o o

Squash and its blossoms originated in the Americas thousands of years ago, the flowers, however, don't have a floral taste. Rick Bayless, one of America's experts on Mexican cooking, has said that people eating squash blossoms might not notice their taste in stuffed-flower dishes, but they have "a distinctive, light-green flavor" similar to Bibb lettuce that "somehow includes the flavor of yellow squash, too."

The blossoms, often fist-sized, come in a variety of yellow and orange shades, depending on the ...

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